January 14, 2008
Dreaming of Flying (Without the Airplane)
Yesterday family, friends, and I are sitting just inside the dry sand on the beach of Waimea Bay. Quicksilver camera crews are hooked up and ready to film. It’s 6:00 a.m., an hour before sunrise.
It’s the Eddie Big Wave Surfing Competition, and we feel the mist of the white froth kiss our cheeks, and as we talk, [...]